Le Papillon: Defined, Dramatic Butterfly Eye (Great for Mono-lids and Hooded Lids)
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This is inspired by an old video by Gossmakeupartist and would work on those with mono-lids and hooded lids, who want dramatic color to show up on their eyes. The wing shape and the colors I chose are a good deal different from his as I was going for a more dramatic look, reminiscent of what has been going down the catwalks recently, but the basic premise is the same.
You will need a slim black pencil and 3 shadow shades; 1 light, 1 bright, 1 dark.
For a less dramatic look you can choose colors in the same family (e.g. pale, medium and dark purple) or complementary colors (gold, orange, copper). For more “pop”, I went with shades that weren’t exactly next to each other on the color wheel; pale-gold, teal, and purple.
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Step 1: Laying down the shape. The diagram above shows you the approximate shape of the eye. What you’ll get is a sort of rough “E” shape at the outer corners. The more top-heavy your “E” is, the more dramatic the wing will be.
The important thing is that the top of the “E” MUST be visible when your eyes are open, and you can only do that by going above your lid. Don’t follow your natural crease, especially if you have hooded or mono-lids, as the crease folds downwards and will cover up any eye color you apply there.
Step 2: Smudge the inner portions of the “E” inward with a firm shadow brush or your finger. It should fade inwards, rather than end in a harsh line.
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Step 3: Apply the palest shadow to the inner 1/3 of the lids and also bring it down around the corner of the eyes to the inner 1/3 of the lower lash line as well. You don’t have to use the same color as me, but in general, if you have smaller eyes, don’t pick a dark shade for this area.
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Step 4: Pack a strong teal green in the center of the lids, and also along the central portions of the lower lash line to mirror the upper lid.
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Step 5: Finish the lid by packing a dark purple into the remaining 1/3 of the lids, going right up to the edge of the black kohl but not going beyond it. You can use your brush to blend into the black pencil a bit so there isn’t a harsh an obvious black outline.
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Step 6: Run the black pencil along the upper lash line and along the waterline, before applying black mascara to finish the look.
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Quick-Tip for uber-drama: Make the top part of the “E” shape angular rather than rounded.
