The Makeup Box

[Requested] Jade Thirlwell makeup in DNA makeup tutorial: Classic Neutral Glam Eyes and 3D Burgundy Lips)

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Seems Jade Thirlwell’s makeup in the DNA video is causing quite a stir.

Basic theme:

Now, the video has special lighting and some color editing so there’s a noir sort of atmosphere, and the skin of all the girls looks a little sepia-toned and monochromatic. You won’t see any blush on their faces. There’s just matte, clean skin and a bit of matte contouring around the cheeks. Contrastingly, their hair and lip colors are processed to show up more visibly.

Each girl has a slightly different neutral glam eye, and “3D lips” done in different shades.

Jade Thirwell’s Look:

Jade’s lip was colored in deep berry tones to match that incredible burgundy hair. Her eye makeup is a slightly softer and more romantic than some of the smokier or cattier looks the other girls sport. There isn’t any obvious contouring; just thick liner along the upper lash line.

I would say ANYONE can do this look, although the effect will be more dramatic if you are very pale, with dark hair.

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The “Caroline Flack”: Hooded Winged-Eye

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Caroline has hooded eyes, where the lid folds over very low and hides the crease, so she looks almost like she has a mono-lid. There are many other women with a similar eye shape (including Blake Lively), and while it does give a slightly exotic look, many people find it hard to apply shadows.

On Caroline, the highest point of the shadow is not in the center or at the outer corners (typical of most other smoky looks). Instead, her makeup artist has placed the highest point near the start of the brows and then diagonally down and out into an elongated wing. When done right, this shape exaggerates that “squint” that hooded eyes have, and gives a slightly grungy rock star feel.

I don’t have that eye shape to show you very clearly, but I’ll give you a run-down and hopefully it helps some of you! (This look definitely can be worn even if you don’t have a hooded eye.)

You will need:

• 1 overall lid shadow in a medium-deep shade. Caroline favors rich sable browns and dark smoky greys.
• 1 very soft and smudgy black pencil or liner. You can definitely use gel/pot liner for this as well.
• 1 matte charcoal (if you’re using grey) or espresso-brown shadow (if you are using brown).
• Black or dark brown mascara.

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Step 1: I’m using a single soft blending brush for the whole look. Lay down the main lid color ONLY WITHIN the crease. Don’t blend or smoke out yet. (I’m using MAC Sable.)

Then now, you begin to blend and expand the shape at the inner corners and outer corners in the directions shown above. As always don’t be too heavy-handed at the start. Build up the color very slowly.

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Step 2: Using a darker cocoa brown in a matte texture (Revlon Matte Eye Shadow in 009 Rich Sable), I just emphasized the outer corners more, making sure to blend out into the wing.

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Step 3: Using a very soft and rich black kohl pencil, apply black liberally to upper and lower lash lines, going over the waterline twice to make sure it’s really black. I finished by dipping a Q-tip into the brown shadow used earlier, and then smudging out the edges of the liner to finish. (See dotted line above). Be careful to only smudge BELOW the pencil along the lower lash line. You want to still keep the black very dark and intense there.

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Step 4: Very important. I dabbed a bit of concealer on the peaks of the brow bone and below the outer corners of my eyes, then blended outwards in the direction shown ahove. This cleans up the area and emphasizes that wing shape.

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Step 5: To finish, apply mascara generously to the lashes, pulling up and out at the outer corners. Caroline always has heaps of black mascara on. If you prefer, you can apply false lashes, but make sure to choose ones that are longer at the outer corners.

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The finished look: the skin below the brow bone should be clean. The wing should stay low and stretch straight out, not up. You can also afford to use a lot more black along the upper lash line than I did, just to emphasize that mono-lid effect.