The Makeup Box

Neo Noir: Dramatic Metallic Look

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I wanted to revisit the classic dark-eyes-dark-lips noir look, but update it a little with muted, mysterious colors on the lids. It’s actually quite a simple look to recreate.

I’m using limited edition crushed metallic pigments from MAC, but you can easily find alternatives in the permanent range. You will need:

• Black pencil
• Bright teal-green (Rain Drop pigment; alternative: MAC Steamy shadow)
• Pale silver-green (Moss Garden pigment; alternative: MAC Reflects Transparent Teal)
• Mascara

Alternatively, you can choose any color as long as you pair a bright medium shade and a coordinating pale glittery shade. Just remember that because you are applying the shadow over a black base, the shades you choose need to be a shade lighter/brighter than you intend them to be. If you’re not sure, just test it over black pencil on the back of your hand first.

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Step 1: I began by applying a very thick coat of black kajal to the entire lid, up to the socket line. Then I ran it along the loewr lash line as well.

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Step 2: Using a finger, very lightly smoke out the edges of the liner so you don’t have any harsh lines. It should just look like a smoky eye.

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Step 3: Laying the first shade; apply the medium shade onto the entire lid, over the black, leaving only the center empty. I used my fingers because that controls crushed metal pigments better, but if you’re using regular pigment or pressed shadow, just use a shadow brush.

When you’re done, just brush or gently smudge the color out at the outer corners to create faint wings.

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Step 4: With a damp flat brush, I picked up the more glittery, pale shade and smoothed it onto the center of the lid. Blend slightly into the first shade, but not too much.

Next, apply the pale shade to the innermost corners of the eyes as well.

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Step 5: Finish by touching up black liner along the water line, and then applying mascara.

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For the lips, I applied a dark liver-brown (MAC Amplified Lipstick in Deepest Wish), then kept the cheeks soft with a very light pink (Bourjois Eye Shadow #15).

Peaches and Grapes: MAC Crushed Metallic Pigments in Rose Light and Grape

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What with all the pigment collecting I do, I figured I should break them out and use them more.

The 2 shades I’m using are Rose Light (available from the 2011 Christmas/Holiday collection, as well as the Vera collection) and Grape. If you don’t have Rose Light, something like MAC Swish would do fine.

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Step 1: Apply the dark plum-purple pigment to the outer 1/3 of the lids, and then sweep the brush up along the hollow of the socket line.

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Step 2: I used my finger to apply the soft peach-pink shade to the entire inner 2/3 of the lids, going over the purple along the socket line.

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Step 3: Apply a brown gel liner (or pencil) along the entire upper lash line and then the outer half of the lower lids only.

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Step 4: Instead of mascara, I’m putting on false lashes after curling my natural ones. Try Ardell 120 Demis or Demi Wispies.

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Red Lids Mauve Lips: MAC Strawberry Patch Crushed Metallic Pigment Tutorial

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I didn’t want to do the typical look using the new MAC Vera products I got, so since it’s been quite a while since I did any red eyeshadow, I decided it was the best chance to showcase Moon Rose pigment (cool-toned burgundy red with a soft fuchsia sheen).

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Step 1: Apply MAC Shale or any smoky plum/brown to both corners of the eye, and run along the socket as in an arc as well.

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Step 2: Spray a flat brush with Fix+ to dampen, and then pack on a rich fuchsia-red pigment like MAC  Moon Rose from the Strawberry Patch Crushed Metallic Pigment stack.

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Step 3: Reapply the plum shade along the socket line.

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Step 4: Dust a pale champagne/ash shimmer along the inner corners. I used  Star Crystal pigment from the same Crushed Metallic Pigment stack, but you can use any pale beige or champagne.

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Step 5: Finish with a plum liner along the upper lash line and water line (Rimmel Exaggerate Pencil in 220 Perfect Plum), and then apply mascara.

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Step 6: After applying a soft pink blush, I applied a matte pale mauve on the lips (Revlon Matte Lipstick in Pink Pout) and then pressed on a light layer of a sparkly, glittery mauve pigment (MAC Strawberry Patch pigment).

Classic Pin-Up Look in Rose Tones (MAC Rose Light pigment with Rebel Lipstick)

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Step 1: Apply a soft bronze/brown along the outer half of the socket line (along the hollows), and along the outer half of the lower lashes. I used a medium brown from The Body Shop, but this is such a generic shade you can use one from anywhere.

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Step 2: Apply a soft sparkly pink on the lids. I used MAC Rose Light from the Strawberry Patch Crushed Metallic Pigment stack (Vera Collection). You can use MAC Swish or Da Bling for a similar shade in a less sparkly finish.

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Step 3: Use a black gel liner and draw in the outer flick parallel to the curve/angle of  your lower lash line.

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Step 4: Pull the liner from outside in diagonally, in an almost straight line until you hit the center of your lids. Then continue along the curve of your lash line to the inner corners.

Then apply a beige, yellow or white liner along the water line. This is a useful trick when wearing pink/peach/red tones on the lids, as it will minimize the “red-eye” effect and make your eyes look brighter. I used NARS Rue Bonaparte pencil.

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Step 5: I applied a very soft pink blush to the cheeks (MAC Pearlmatte Face Powder in Sunday Afternoon; use Well Dressed or any other soft pink if you don’t have access to this. I just happen to love it.)

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Step 6: Apply a deep purple/magenta liner (I used NYX Purple Rain pencil) very light to lips and fill in to get a sheer purplish base. Then fill in with a deep burgundy-rose lipstick like MAC Rebel.

MAC “Vera” Collection Haul: My Top Picks and Swatches!

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All items swatched on bare skin without a base.

I had some gift vouchers (yay) so what better than to blow them on the MAC “Vera” 2012 collection?

I’d been waiting for this since I saw the images on MAC’s site a few weeks ago, but didn’t know it would hit our shelves this soon. So when I walked past a MAC counter this evening on my way to a movie, my eyes lighted on a small colorful display, and I might have shrieked a little before I made a beeline right for it. 

The item I had really wanted from the collection was actually only the Crushed Metallic Pigment stack “Butterfly Party”, but I decided to swatch everything on a whim and feel in love with 2 other items I had not thought would be nice. So I ended up getting:

Crushed Metallic Pigment Stack “Butterfly Party”

• Rain Drop: Metallic Teal (if you have Teal pigment, you don’t need this.)
• Moss Garden: Sparkly Seafoam-Silver (unexpectedly pretty and quite unique)
• Butterfly Party: Rich Purple Pearl (nice but not a must to have)
• Desert Cloud: Metallic Indigo Violet (lovely blue-violet; a darker, more purple version of Cornflower pigment)

Crushed Metallic Pigment Stack “Strawberry Patch”

• Star Crystal: Metallic champagne-ash (If you missed out Metal X Palladium, this is a lovely pearl-beige shade that isn’t too stark white)
• Rose Light: Frosted Pastel Pink (80’s pink - in a good way)
• Strawberry Patch: Glittery mauve (pretty, but my least favorite of the bunch because it’s so sparkly that it’s hard to wear for day, and needs a good base to work)
• Moon Rose: Metallic burgundy with fuchsia sheen (the reason I picked up this stack. The images don’t do this justice so you’ll have to swatch this yourself before it’s sold out!)

MAC Pearlmatte Face Powder in Sunday Afternoon

I thought the 2 pearlmatte face powders were blushes until I swatched one of them on and got the surprise of my life. These are like a cross between beauty powders and Mineralize Skinfinishes, with an interesting texture that’s matte but luminous at the same time. 

It’s a little like my beloved MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Porcelain Pink, which gives a soft pink glow but is not outright shiny like other MAC MSFs, except this is better if you are afraid of looking oily.

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I did not get any of the lip glasses or liners from the Vera collection.

It’s not that they aren’t nice; in fact the glitter liners are beautiful. But I don’t find the glitters in pencils obviously enough to make much of a difference from regular metallic pencils, so I didn’t see any point buying them at MAC prices. 

As for the glosses, well, I’m not a lip gloss girl so I gave all of them a miss. You’ll have to check them out yourselves at the counter and judge for yourself if you like them!