Vibrant Blue Smoke (Kat von D Shade Shifter in Stockholm)
This is a tutorial on how to bring out the most from your duochrome eye shadows, mixed with a quick overview of one of Kat von D’s Shade Shifter shadows. Duochrome shadows are the ones that seem to change color when you move them around under the light, because they have one base tone, and a different reflective highlight.
There were 3 in the Shade Shifter collection when I was at Sephora; a blue-brown which is a dupe of MAC’s Blue-Brown pigment (get that if you don’t like working with loose powder; it’s more vibrant than MAC Club pressed shadow), a green-gold which is a shinier version of MAC’s Gorgeous Gold, if I don’t recall wrong, and Stockholm, a blue-violet which I got.
It’s actually similar but not a dupe for MAC’s Cornflower pigment as they both share that blue base and violet sheen, but Cornflower is more purple, glittery, and translucent compared to Stockholm.
The tutorial I’m doing is an easy way for you to wear ANY duo-chrome shadow, regardless of color or brand. It’s all in the base, because white and black brings out the different facets of duochrome shades beautifully.
Step 1: I first applied a white pencil (Maybelline Eye Studio Shadow Liner) to the inner corners of my lids and softened it out with my finger. You don’t want to have streaks or patchiness because the shadow can grab in those areas and look uneven later.
Step 2: The rest of the lid is filled in with black pencil. I simply draw a line along the socket (the hollow dip above your eye ball) leaving only the inner corners empty, and then filled in the area below it.
I also ran the pencil along the inner rims of my lash line on both upper and lower lids.
Step 3: When you’re done, use a shadow brush to gently smudge out the edges at the upper lids, so you don’t have any hard lines and edges. It should fade out and be smoky at the borders.
Step 4: This is the simplest and most fun step. Just use a shadow brush to pack on the duochrome color from the white area to the black. It’s important not to go from the dark areas to the light because your brush could pick up some of the black and that would “contaminate” the areas that are supposed to be light.
NOTE: I also did not apply the shadow on the outermost portions of the eye because I wanted to keep that part black for more contrast with the rest of the lids.
You can see from the image that the white brings out the bright cyan-blue base of the shadow, and the black base brings out the violet sheen. You just made it look like you expertly blended 3 shades of shadow (turquoise, violet, black) when all you used was 1 single shade.
This same technique would work with ANY duochrome shadow, so grab what you have and have fun playing!