The Makeup Box

Cloudy Pink-and-Mauve Eye (using MAC Shadows)

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I haven’t done a girly, soft, easy-to-apply eye for quite awhile, and this is a slight variation of a previous look (Napolitan Ice-Cream look), with shimmery shades replacing the matte ones, and an overall plummy tone.

The colors are flattering for most skins, but you might want to adjust the shades and make them stronger and deeper if you have a very deep skin tone.

The 3 shades I used were from MAC:

• MAC Vex - a soft grey-beige with a pink sheen; I don’t really know of a dupe for this as it’s a very unique color. If you need, just look for a soft beige shade.
• MAC Da Bling - Pearly Barbie-esque pastel pink; a similar but cheaper shade would be NYX’s Pink Oleander.
• MAC Shale - Deep smoky brownish plum that’s actually neutral enough as a soft smoky lid shade for school and work. Try NYX Eggplant but use a light hand as that’s a more intense shade than Shale.

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Step 1: This step is actually optional. If you want the overall look to be softer and subtler, you don’t need to use a plum base. I just like the intensity for a tutorial. I filled in my entire lid with a plum colored pencil from Rimmel called 220 Perfect Plum. You don’t have to use a pencil if you’ve got a cream shadow in a similar shade.

I applied it to the lower lash line as well. Make sure you smudge out the edges with your fingers after you’re done, so there are no harsh lines.

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Step 2: Take the soft pearly grey-beige and apply that to the inner half of the lids. Then on the outer half, apply the smoky plum.

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Step 3: To add the finishing touch, apply a soft pearl-pink down the center of the lids. (As you can tell this is my favorite trick for adding definition to the eye and also more dimension to your eye shadow shades.)

Just make sure not to blend it out too much as you want to keep most of the color in the center.

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Step 4: Finish with black mascara or false lashes!

November Favorites (What I’ve been wearing, carrying, reading, and more!)

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My music’s mellow, my cheeks are dewy, and my scent is cozy, but other than this, my tastes have been running towards the wild and the bright, despite it being deep into the Fall season.

Eye makeup - MAC Tilt shadow

Tilt by MAC is like Superman. (Is it blue? Is it teal? Is it lime?)

This metallic shade has a fabulous texture, goes on like a dream, and gives your lids INSTANT drama, whether you’re pale or dark.

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Face product - MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Blonde

I wish this wasn’t a limited edition product. I love the soft dewy pink. It’s too shiny looking to apply over your entire cheek (your pores would look like lunar craters), but run right along the peaks of your cheek bones, it’s gorgeous and more flattering than a yellow-toned highlighter. 

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Lip product - Barry M Lip Paint #146 Dolly Pink

Who says you need to match the tree in your backyard just because it’s Fall??! After a few months of “natural-looking” lip colors, I’m falling back in love with intense electro-pinks. Just ditch the shimmer and use a dark/black matte shadow to create messy, winged, bad-girl eyes, and you’ll be looking SMOKIN’…

For the darker-skinned lovelies, I always recommend MAC Pink Nouveau for something that will not go on chalky-looking, but if you’re paler, put Barry M’s Lip Paint in Dolly Pink on your Xmas wishlist NOW. This old favorite is deeper than Saint Germain and paler than Pink Nouveau. (And cheaper than both.)

While you’re at it, drop in the Lip Liner Pencil #12 because it’s a PURRFECT match.

Barry M ships internationally via barrym.com.

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Skin product - Vichy Normaderm Tri-active Hydrating Lotion

This is a daily lotion for sensitive skin that’s also oily or combination. Using harsh products to strip the oils, or loading your face up with more products just to try to control oil output can sometimes backfire, so I prefer products that don’t aggravate it any further.

This lightweight lotion feels and smells fresh. It’s not going to suddenly dry up your face and stop oil production (that never happens) but it does soothe and work to minimize issues. Just don’t forget sunscreen over it.

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Nail color - China Glaze Dance Baby

Who can resist the over-the-top tackiness of electro-pop pink nails with electro-pink lips? I just couldn’t bring myself to wear Fall colors. I wore this shade for 2 weeks in the last month. (That seldom EVER happens because I rotate my shades every week.)

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Body care - Eucerin Intensive Repair Extra-Enriched Foot Creme 

This foot creme has buffered alpha hydroxy acid to smooth and slough off dry and flaky skin on heels, and it’s so buttery and non-sticky that I use it as a hand cream instead. 

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Scent - Katy Perry’s Meow

SURELY that’s not a cat, but a chunky pink alien? Surely???

Anyway, tacky-cute cat alien aside (I did grow kinda fond of it in all its kitschy, childish glory), this is a very thick creamy scent, like warm vanilla creme with a soft fruity (pear). Some people smell coconut or cotton candy in there. I don’t really get that except on the rare occasion, and it’s mostly due to the combination of notes. 

Great comfort scent for chilly days and cool nights IF you enjoy smelling like dessert.

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Accessory - Coach ultraviolet “Molly” satchel

What is it about Coach that gets the stereotypical Asian tourist going berserk? I was at the Woodbury outlets and there was a Korean gentleman with 2 arms DRAPED with what must have been close to 20 bags. He had a look of focused obsession on his face, and was pacing the aisles looking for more items to grab. 

I’ve never been a fan, but the DH had been given a shopping list by the family, so I accompanied him to the Coach boutique that afternoon. Picture the very odd scene where the man is busy examining Coach bags and talking about models and colors with the sales attendants, while the woman stands to the side tapping her foot and trying not to look too bored.

That was until I caught sight of the most glorious violet leather in the entire universe (ok I exaggerate, but not by much). Not any ol’ purple, but P-U-R-P-L-E. Deep, and bright at the same time. It wasn’t just the color either. I don’t know why I never really noticed the Molly before, but I had a Goldilocks moment. The bag was not too big, not too small, not to structured, not too slouchy, with leather that was neither too thick and heavy, nor too delicate. 

I haven’t stopped carrying it since.

[For the reader who sent me a message yesterday to ask about pricing and colors, the retail price in the US is just under $350. If you’re elsewhere in the world, it’s going to cost quite a bit more. Colors include a caramel and a bright, GORGEOUS neon-pink. They also have a color-blocked version but I personally think it’s just too “noisy” for a bag this size and isn’t heart-stoppingly bright like the single-shade version.]

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Entertainment - Horror/Apocalypse/Survival theme

It’s been a sort of horror month, with the morbid central attraction being post-apocalyptic scenes. 

Book - The Twelve (Justin Cronin)

TV - The Walking Dead Season 3

Music - Kate Bush “50 Words for Snow”

I first stumbled onto Kate after hearing a remixed version of “Experiment IV” by Hybrid. This amazing writer/producer/singer has been at it since the late 70s, and she’s still got it today.

50 Words for Snow is ethereal and atmospheric, and something to listen to on melancholic, quiet days. Preferably when you’re feeling a little chilly. If you enjoy Tori Amos or Cinematic Orchestra, you will probably like this album.

And isn’t that album campaign image (AND her eye makeup) just beautiful?

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Let me know what some of your favorites this past month have been!

Fall/Winter 2012 Trends: Mulberry Lips and Winged Black Eyes

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A recap of 2 of the key trends for this year; plum lips with a clean face and clumpy mascara (especially love the Gucci “Mulberry” lip paired with bleached brows) or black winged eyes, worn both smoky and graphic.

Mulberry Lips

If you’re looking for a lipstick, look for something that seems to be right in the cross-roads of red and black. It shouldn’t lean too brown or too purple.

The texture varies (matte, creamy, glossy, metallic) but the application is always extremely precise. If you don’t have a steady head, definitely use a dark lip liner and lip brush to apply.

One other great way to get a very precise lip is to rub some concealer or foundation around the edges of your lips before you apply your liner or lipstick. The skin around our lip lines are sometimes a little discolored, so this helps to mask that. 

Some makeup artists also take it to the extremes by using a very small brush to paint a little foundation AROUND the lip line after applying lipstick. Definitely make sure you don’t leave a visible beige ring around your mouth if you try this!

Wear mulberry lips with a clean face (i.e. minimal eye makeup and no obvious blush; just some contouring if you need).

Winged Eyes

Most winged eyes are done with a matte charcoal or black shadow packed on really intensely onto the entire lid, but applied only up to the socket line; no further. Most looks are winged outward slightly at the outer corners for a cat-like effect.

Black on the lower lid is optional.

If you want some color, you can pop a little shimmery shadow over the inner corners of the eye where it will look duochrome without changing the overall look and shape.

For the lips to pair with this, anything goes but the preference is for a bright red or a dark vampy plum once again.

Baroque Flower-Girl Shimmer: Smoky Eye Makeup with a Pastel Twist

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One more queued tutorial for those who are doing any floral or candy-themed looks this Halloween! This is a hazy, colorful look grounding colorful pastels with the strength of a dark shimmery wood-brown so you get the rich sexiness of a smoky eye look, but paired with bright and soft colors so it’s complex but soft.

You just need

• lid shade: a bronze-brown shadow (e.g. MAC Tempting)
• defining shade: a rich purple (I used MAC Satellite Dreams)
• highlight shade: a pale pink (L’oreal Forever Pink)
• pencils: 1 matching the lid shade (brown) and 1 matching the defining shade (I used Bourjois pencils and it might be hard to find for those of you in the US, so just go with NYX or any brand you can get hold of with lots of colorful metallic pencils!)

P.S. You should know that you can actually choose different colors for your look. E.g. grey on the lid, green on the socket and pale blue as highlights. Experiment!

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Step 1: First, apply a dark eye shadow base over your lids. You can use a grey/black pencil and blend it out, or something like MAC Blackground Paint Pot or the dark primer from the Kat von D line. Just blend it up towards the socket line in a rounded shape. (Don’t wing it out.)

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Step 2: In the center, on the lid itself, apply the medium brown shade. The dark base below will make it look more intense and also give it a richness.

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Step 3: Now using a smaller brush and the defining shade, which should be the most colorful and strong of the 3 you choose, run it along the otuer perimeters of your socket, covering the last bits of the dark base you applied earlier. 

Run it along the lower lash line as well so when you close your eyes, it looks like a ring of color surrounding the neutral shade in the center. DO NOT blend the 2 shades into each other! You will get a messy, muddy look.

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Step 4: Using a soft brush again, pick up some of the pale pink and then apply it to the inner corners of the eyes, fading in an arc above the purple but keeping it strongest at the inner corners.

Then do the same from the outer corners of the lower lid, inwards. Blend it outwards over the tops of your cheekbones if you’re using this for a Halloween look. It’s very “pixie-ish”.

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Things I’m Loving Right Now (Makeup, Tools, Skincare, Fragrance!)

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Let’s get right to it!

1. Coastal Scents Mica in Paradise Sunset

This deep burnished copper-fire pigment is freaky-beautiful. Just make sure you use a good base because it will flake and fade like any loose powder shadow.

Get it while they’re running clearance on coastalscents.com!

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2. MAC Shadow in Crystal

I’ve owned this shadow for over a year now and only recently started to use it more. I love that subtle duo-chrome glow as it shifts between a soft ash and a pale lavender. Unique without being too loud!

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3. Shu Uemura Brow Pencil in Hard Formula 9 Seal Brown

It took me awhile to get down to trying these, despite their cult status. Who wants to pay so much for a pencil that you need to bring back to the counter to sharpen unless they have a Shu Uemura counter downstairs?

But one I realised this gives the most NATURAL-looking brows, and just how long the pencil lasts (if you use it normally just to define and fill in your brows, that professionally-shaved sword-tip lasts for around 2 months; I kid you not).

What with work and blogging, I used to go through a full-length MAC pencil once every 3 months. This ended up saving me money in the longer run.

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4. BH Cosmetics Eye Blending Brush

This totally was not a brush I was expecting to like so much. I don’t use this to blend eye shadows. It’s big and thick and soft enough that it’s a FANTASTIC brush for applying setting powder over concealer, under your eyes and blemishes etc. Especially good if you don’t like over-applying powder, and want to be precise and subtle with it.

Plus, it’s $2.96. Link to brush here.

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5. Horse Oil

This might sound like the strangest beauty product to those who’ve never heard of it, but horse oil is popular in Japan as an anti-aging and healing skin aid because of its ability to protect skin barrier. 

(No horses are harmed as far as I know. Like Lanolin from sheep, horse oil is literally horse sebum and extracted from their coats/skin.)

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6. Clarins White Plus HP Emulsion SPF20

I love how Clarins skincare and body care products always have the most divine, fresh aromas. This oil-free day lotion is no different.

It’s silky-smooth, lightweight emulsion absorbs quickly, and is fantastic for oily/combination to normal skins that don’t like heavy creams and lotions. I’m not 100% sure about availability in US/EU, as many “white” lines are exclusive to Asia. 

If it’s there, it might also be listed under a different name because the West doesn’t share that same Eastern obsession with pale-ness (hence “white plus”).

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7. Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain eau de parfum

Hopelessly addicted to this honey-based scent. It’s long-lasting, silky and comforting without smelling juvenile or sticky-sweet. Plus, I always buy mine from an offline discount store for a pretty good price. (Under US$50 for a 1.7oz bottle of EDP concentration, vs US$95-100 retail.)

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8. The Body Shop Home Fragrance Oils (Jasmin & Frangipanier, Bois de Santal
& Gingembre)

Jasmin & Frangipanier - I love Jasmine, I love Frangipani. Put essential oils of both sweet, ethereal flowers in concentrated amounts into one bottle and then put it on sale a few dollars? I’m sold.

Bois de Santal & Gingembre - this sweet, ambery, spicy scent reminds me of my S$160 bottle of Five O’Clock au Gingembre by Serge Lutens. Except it’s dirt cheap and concentrated enough to fill up my entire room. LOVE it. 

I dilute a few drops of these with pure denatured alcohol, add in water, and then spray it on clothes, bedding, etc.

Fantasy Brights with the 88 Shimmer Palette

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I decided to whip out my 88 Shimmer Palette to do something bright and fun to beat the Monday blues. I’ve had a comment from a reader about having very dark skin, and how looks don’t turn out the same. Do note that depending on your skin tone, you will need to adjust shades to get a similar effect. 

E.g. If I use a pale peach, you might need to look for a stronger apricot or orange-tone to get the same effect on your skin. What is a smoky brown for me might look like a chalky taupe on very dark skin, or very dark on porcelain skins. Always try to adjust a little bit if your skin tone is very different from mine (NC25 thereabouts). If you’re about fair to medium (NC/NW20 - NC/NW40), most looks will turn out quite similar.

If you don’t own the 88 Shimmer palette, just take a look at the 3 shades I used, and you should be able to locate these shades in other shadow collections.

You’ll need:

• a soft peach shimmer
• a bright blue-pink shimmer
• a deep red-tinged brown

Step 1: Pack the blue pink right in the center of the lid first. Allow a little to smudge down onto your lower lash line.

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Step 2: With a soft, bright peach, pack that into the inner corner of your lid. Apply to the lower lash line in the inner corners as well.

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Step 3: With a dark warm brown, apply to the outer 1/3 of the lids and then bring it down along the lower lash line (outer 1/3 only), as well as up along the hollow of the socket line, especially if you need to define your eye contours a bit.

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Step 4: To intensify the rich brown, I ran a metallic brown pencil along the upper and lower lash lines, letting the line get thicker at the outer ends.

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Step 5: Finish by curling lashes and applying mascara!

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The 88 shimmer palette is available from BH Cosmetics and Coastal Scents. Prices vary depending on promotions, so do keep an eye on both sites!