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Posts tagged home brew

How To: Make Your Own Cream Shadow from Powder Pigments or Shadows

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I mentioned last week that I’d run you through how to create your own cream/mousse shadow using powder pigments. This should work with all loose shadows, and most pressed ones as well.

Ingredients:

  1. Solvent/Suspension base: Rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol. The higher the alcohol content, the better.
  2. Powder pigment: If you are creating yours from a pressed shadow, crumble it up first.
  3. Binder: You can use either an oil or a silicone (dimethicone, silicone oil etc). Oils* are easier to find in general, and my recommendation is Jojoba or Mineral oil. 
  4. Small empty containers like the 5gram jar I used here.
*You can use organic oils like argan, Vitamin E, etc for skincare properties in your cream shadow but take care to use these up quickly or they will go rancid.
—

Step 1: First scoop the loose pigments into the jar you will be using. If you are using pressed shadow, make sure to crush it as much as possible as you want to minimize any lumps. If you are mixing 2 or more shades, do so while they are DRY.

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Step 2: Using a plastic pipette (optional) or just straight from the bottle, add alcohol into the powder until it is all suspended in liquid. Then use a small spatula to stir gently and mix everything until you get a smooth, liquid paste.

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Step 3: There should be a bit of excess alcohol at the surface of your mixture when you begin to start adding in drops of oil or silicone. The amount to add varies with the amount of pigments you used, and the texture. Finer, smoother pigments will require less oil and grittier feeling ones will need more. 

You should stir and add more until you start to notice the smooth liquid/paste starting to separate from the alcohol and look lumpy and curd-like. This means the binder has been incorporated well into the powders.

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Step 4: Leave the mixture to sit for a while, until the lightweight alcohol rises to the surface and all the shadow has sunken to the bottom. You can carefully tip the  jar and use some tissue to soak up the excess alcohol.

Leave overnight or for at least 3-4 hours until it’s more or less dry.

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Step 5: The finished product will look rather grainy or lumpy at the top but don’t worry. This is just the surface. If you’ve seen the surface of a jar of untouched Chanel Illusion D’Ombre, this won’t be unfamiliar to you. 

If well blended, the surface texture should feel silky and almost mousse-like. Now you can just use it the way you’d use any cream/mousse shadow.

Enjoy!

Pigment used for demonstration: TKB Sparkle Blue. (MAC Cornflower is a smoother, finer-grained and more intensely-shiny alternative.)

Posted June 24, 2012 at 9:47 pm 323 notes

#D.I.Y.#everyday minerals#home brew#how to#how to make cream eye shadow#loose pigments#mac pigments#makeup#mineral makeup#pigments#tips and tricks#tkb trading#sparkle blue

D.I.Y. Lip Tars: Uber-intense metallic lip pigments —- [Pic: Get your own metallic brown lips with a rich copper-brown pigment like MAC Chocolate Brown.] So many people are so obsessed with OCC Lip Tars but I don’t quite understand why people don’t mix up their own. If you like the concept of intensely-pigmented lip “paints” that go on like gloss but look and perform like opaque lipsticks, you’ll probably be interested to know that the formula is extremely simple. It consists mainly of oils and pigments. There’s nothing really magical or all that hard to recreate aside from the color formulations (just because the matte pigments OCC uses for their non-shimmery finishes are generally harder to work with than metallic ones).  Arm yourself with: A light vegetable oil (avoid extra-virgin as these have a stronger smell and go rancid faster), jojoba oil, or silicone oil a bunch of pigments in shades that you feel would make great lip colors [Optional] skin-safe essential oils like rose, mint, etc. according to your preference Clean plastic ziploc bag in the smallest size available Small eye dropper bottle Spatula/scoop The steps are quite idiot-proof: Drop a scoop of pigment into a small ziploc bag and add about half the volume of oil Zip up and smoosh everything around, getting everything as smooth as possible. If the formula is too fluid, add more pigments. If there are lumps that refuse to dissipate, then slowly add a drop or two more oil. It’s better to add too little oil at the start than too much, as you won’t be able to go back if you’ve used all your pigment and the formula is too sheer. Test a tiny bit on the back of your hand. You should have a lotion like consistency and the formula can be as opaque or sheer as you want. If you’re really going for the lip tar look, make sure it’s opaque, but smooth to the touch. When you’re done with the formula, cut the corner off the bottom of the ziploc bag and squeeze the mixture out into a small travel dropper bottle like you would pipe cake icing out of a bag. And you’re done! Like lip tars, the pigments will settle to the bottom after awhile, so you will need to shake a bit before each use just to re-distribute the pigments. It goes without saying these work better applied with a lip brush than applied with your fingers or from an applicator tube like actual lip glosses.  Dark metallic purple home-made lip tar. One thing to note whether you’re using an OCC lip tar or a home-brew is that natural oils tend to absorb into the skin or dry up after a few hours, so the product will start to look less shiny and more matte. If you want a really sticky, high-shine finish, you will need to buy specialty ingredients like Versagel 750 ME, as lip balms and petroleum jelly won’t quite cut it, although mineral-based or silicone oils tend to be shinier for longer than organic oils.  Metallic pigments tend to stay true to their finish and shade when suspended in a medium, but if you are working with matte pigments, you’ll need to take note that they will always become darker once suspended. What looks like a bright neon pink powder will become a deep magenta once “wet”. To get it to look as light and bright as it does when dry, you will often need to slowly add in white pigment to slowly adjust and make the color “creamier”, brighter and paler. It’s also a good idea to have a digital micro-scale to weigh and note down how much of each pigment you added, or you will find it hard to recreate the exact same shade again once you run out of your current batch. [Electric pink creme-finish lip tar made with matte neon-pink and white pigments.]

D.I.Y. Lip Tars: Uber-intense metallic lip pigments

—-

[Pic: Get your own metallic brown lips with a rich copper-brown pigment like MAC Chocolate Brown.]

So many people are so obsessed with OCC Lip Tars but I don’t quite understand why people don’t mix up their own. If you like the concept of intensely-pigmented lip “paints” that go on like gloss but look and perform like opaque lipsticks, you’ll probably be interested to know that the formula is extremely simple.

It consists mainly of oils and pigments. There’s nothing really magical or all that hard to recreate aside from the color formulations (just because the matte pigments OCC uses for their non-shimmery finishes are generally harder to work with than metallic ones). 

Arm yourself with:

  • A light vegetable oil (avoid extra-virgin as these have a stronger smell and go rancid faster), jojoba oil, or silicone oil
  • a bunch of pigments in shades that you feel would make great lip colors
  • [Optional] skin-safe essential oils like rose, mint, etc. according to your preference
  • Clean plastic ziploc bag in the smallest size available
  • Small eye dropper bottle
  • Spatula/scoop

The steps are quite idiot-proof:

  1. Drop a scoop of pigment into a small ziploc bag and add about half the volume of oil
  2. Zip up and smoosh everything around, getting everything as smooth as possible. If the formula is too fluid, add more pigments. If there are lumps that refuse to dissipate, then slowly add a drop or two more oil. It’s better to add too little oil at the start than too much, as you won’t be able to go back if you’ve used all your pigment and the formula is too sheer.
  3. Test a tiny bit on the back of your hand. You should have a lotion like consistency and the formula can be as opaque or sheer as you want. If you’re really going for the lip tar look, make sure it’s opaque, but smooth to the touch.
  4. When you’re done with the formula, cut the corner off the bottom of the ziploc bag and squeeze the mixture out into a small travel dropper bottle like you would pipe cake icing out of a bag.
And you’re done!
Like lip tars, the pigments will settle to the bottom after awhile, so you will need to shake a bit before each use just to re-distribute the pigments.
It goes without saying these work better applied with a lip brush than applied with your fingers or from an applicator tube like actual lip glosses. 

Dark metallic purple home-made lip tar.

One thing to note whether you’re using an OCC lip tar or a home-brew is that natural oils tend to absorb into the skin or dry up after a few hours, so the product will start to look less shiny and more matte. If you want a really sticky, high-shine finish, you will need to buy specialty ingredients like Versagel 750 ME, as lip balms and petroleum jelly won’t quite cut it, although mineral-based or silicone oils tend to be shinier for longer than organic oils. 

Metallic pigments tend to stay true to their finish and shade when suspended in a medium, but if you are working with matte pigments, you’ll need to take note that they will always become darker once suspended. What looks like a bright neon pink powder will become a deep magenta once “wet”.

To get it to look as light and bright as it does when dry, you will often need to slowly add in white pigment to slowly adjust and make the color “creamier”, brighter and paler. It’s also a good idea to have a digital micro-scale to weigh and note down how much of each pigment you added, or you will find it hard to recreate the exact same shade again once you run out of your current batch.

[Electric pink creme-finish lip tar made with matte neon-pink and white pigments.]

Posted January 6, 2012 at 8:00 pm 74 notes

#D.I.Y.#home brew#occ lip tar#metallic lipstick#dramatic lipstick#bright pink lipstick#shiny lips#dupe#tips and tricks#makeup tips

  Making your own Glitter Liner (D.I.Y. Sealant Formula!) The good thing about a sealant is that it can be used to suspend pigments and glitter, so that you can apply an intense swatch of it as liner or foil your pigments and shadows for a more dramatic look. There are ready-made formulas around from many brands but if you can’t get hold of them easily, or at a good price, you can always make your own with the below ingredients. Water: Cheap Works on pigments but not on glitters Not long-lasting (pigments and glitter will fall off easily once the water evaporates) Eye Drops Gentle Not too cheap but not very expensive either Works on pigments but not on glitters Does not seal makeup although it sticks better than water Glycerin Solution: 1/4 to 1/3 parts with water Affordable Does not suspend or cling to glitters Does not seal makeup although it sticks better than water Oil-free Makeup Remover:  Foils shadows very well Not expensive but not cheap either Works on pigments but not on glitters Does not seal makeup although it sticks better than water Eyelash Glue: extremely longlasting gives very intense glitter liners works with glitters but not with pigments  have to apply the glitter AFTER you apply glue, which may be messy pain to remove expensive to use in large quantities Experimenting with various glitters and pigments. —- My Formula? Gum Arabic solution. Gum arabic is a natural gum of plant origin, and is used in pill coatings, confectionary coatings, painting and a whole variety of other uses. (But as with anything, if you tend to have sensitivities, just swipe a little on the inside of your elbow to see if you are allergic before use. I don’t have any problem with it.) This sealant sets into a “glaze” and will not rub off until you wash it (liners in top image are actually completely dry and budge-proof but look “glossy” and wet)  You can easily get it from most Art Supply stores (usually the watercolor paint section) for a few dollars You’ll need to dilute it for use, which means 1 bottle will last forever Don’t use this if you need to smudge or blend anything. This will really set it. Diluted gum arabic solution (30% concentration) in dropper bottle. Get a dropper bottle and mix your formulations as per below: 25-30% concentration - good for making liners and you will get a more budge-proof and glazed texture 10-20% concentration - good for pigment or shadow foiling (do NOT wet your brush with this and touch it to your pan shadows as this will SEAL them) 2-5% concentration - put a tiny bit into a spray bottle with toner and make your own makeup setting spray Be sure to test on your hand the first time too. If your liner cracks or feels a little too thick after it dries, you’ll know your formula is too concentrated. —- Step 1: Apply black liquid liner to the lash line just to keep some definition. This will also serve as a guiding line for your glitter or metallic liner.  Step 2: Add pigment or glitter slowly to a tiny drop of your sealant, and mix with your liner brush until the formula looks almost like it is becoming clumpy. Step 3: Use a fine brush to apply your glitter liner just above and slightly overlapping the black liner applied earlier. You can use either a gel liner brush (small tapered flat brush) or a pointy super-fine brush like the one I used (get these at an art supply store). Don’t worry about applying an opaque and even line in a single stroke. You will likely have to make several passes as there won’t be enough formula on the brush to finish your line.  Step 4: Apply mascara last to finish the look. There will be no messy fall out to clean up, and your liner will last for hours and hours. Cleaning up: Gum arabic solution is water soluble, so if you get any on your hands, counter, etc, water will get it right out easily. However, like any makeup, the glitter and pigments themselves will cling to your skin, so to really remove it from your skin at the end of the day, make sure you use a proper face wash or makeup remover and rub gently to dislodge everything.

 

Making your own Glitter Liner (D.I.Y. Sealant Formula!)

The good thing about a sealant is that it can be used to suspend pigments and glitter, so that you can apply an intense swatch of it as liner or foil your pigments and shadows for a more dramatic look. There are ready-made formulas around from many brands but if you can’t get hold of them easily, or at a good price, you can always make your own with the below ingredients.

Water:

  • Cheap
  • Works on pigments but not on glitters
  • Not long-lasting (pigments and glitter will fall off easily once the water evaporates)

Eye Drops

  • Gentle
  • Not too cheap but not very expensive either
  • Works on pigments but not on glitters
  • Does not seal makeup although it sticks better than water

Glycerin Solution:

  • 1/4 to 1/3 parts with water
  • Affordable
  • Does not suspend or cling to glitters
  • Does not seal makeup although it sticks better than water

Oil-free Makeup Remover: 

  • Foils shadows very well
  • Not expensive but not cheap either
  • Works on pigments but not on glitters
  • Does not seal makeup although it sticks better than water

Eyelash Glue:

  • extremely longlasting
  • gives very intense glitter liners
  • works with glitters but not with pigments 
  • have to apply the glitter AFTER you apply glue, which may be messy
  • pain to remove
  • expensive to use in large quantities

Experimenting with various glitters and pigments.

—-

My Formula?

Gum Arabic solution.

Gum arabic is a natural gum of plant origin, and is used in pill coatings, confectionary coatings, painting and a whole variety of other uses. (But as with anything, if you tend to have sensitivities, just swipe a little on the inside of your elbow to see if you are allergic before use. I don’t have any problem with it.)

  • This sealant sets into a “glaze” and will not rub off until you wash it (liners in top image are actually completely dry and budge-proof but look “glossy” and wet) 
  • You can easily get it from most Art Supply stores (usually the watercolor paint section) for a few dollars
  • You’ll need to dilute it for use, which means 1 bottle will last forever
  • Don’t use this if you need to smudge or blend anything. This will really set it.

Diluted gum arabic solution (30% concentration) in dropper bottle.

Get a dropper bottle and mix your formulations as per below:

  • 25-30% concentration - good for making liners and you will get a more budge-proof and glazed texture
  • 10-20% concentration - good for pigment or shadow foiling (do NOT wet your brush with this and touch it to your pan shadows as this will SEAL them)
  • 2-5% concentration - put a tiny bit into a spray bottle with toner and make your own makeup setting spray

Be sure to test on your hand the first time too. If your liner cracks or feels a little too thick after it dries, you’ll know your formula is too concentrated.

—-

Step 1: Apply black liquid liner to the lash line just to keep some definition. This will also serve as a guiding line for your glitter or metallic liner. 

Step 2: Add pigment or glitter slowly to a tiny drop of your sealant, and mix with your liner brush until the formula looks almost like it is becoming clumpy.

Step 3: Use a fine brush to apply your glitter liner just above and slightly overlapping the black liner applied earlier. You can use either a gel liner brush (small tapered flat brush) or a pointy super-fine brush like the one I used (get these at an art supply store).

Don’t worry about applying an opaque and even line in a single stroke. You will likely have to make several passes as there won’t be enough formula on the brush to finish your line. 

Step 4: Apply mascara last to finish the look. There will be no messy fall out to clean up, and your liner will last for hours and hours.

Cleaning up:

Gum arabic solution is water soluble, so if you get any on your hands, counter, etc, water will get it right out easily. However, like any makeup, the glitter and pigments themselves will cling to your skin, so to really remove it from your skin at the end of the day, make sure you use a proper face wash or makeup remover and rub gently to dislodge everything.

Posted October 22, 2011 at 10:30 am 49 notes

#D.I.Y.#home brew#glitter liner#glitter#glitter makeup#sealant#tips and tricks

Lip Mix: Cool, glossy medium pink —- Was in the mood for a softer and more wearable pink than Pink Nouveau, and NYX’s Paris has been my color of choice the past week. Am also trying to finish up my Maybelline Watershine Collagen Gloss #P22, and it turned out they were almost a perfect match, though the gloss is just slightly less cool toned.  Layer the shimmery gloss generously, and you get a really wet looking and rich medium pink.  Above, NYX Paris + Maybelline P22 Watershine Gloss

Lip Mix: Cool, glossy medium pink

—-

Was in the mood for a softer and more wearable pink than Pink Nouveau, and NYX’s Paris has been my color of choice the past week.

Am also trying to finish up my Maybelline Watershine Collagen Gloss #P22, and it turned out they were almost a perfect match, though the gloss is just slightly less cool toned. 

Layer the shimmery gloss generously, and you get a really wet looking and rich medium pink. 

Above, NYX Paris + Maybelline P22 Watershine Gloss

Posted July 27, 2011 at 11:31 pm 8 notes

#lip mix#lip of the day#home brew#glossy lips#pink lipstick#nyx paris#mac pink nouveau#maybelline watershine gloss#tutorial#fashion#style#trend#makeupbox#beauty

Home-Brew: Nude Lips in Every Flavor —- Nudes are yummy. But there are pink nudes, peach nudes, beige nudes, and lilac nudes. How do you get your cake and eat it too? Well here are a few simple formulas for converting a single nude into multiple ones. You first need a Vanilla-Nude. Something that really blanks out your lips when applied. It should you almost exactly your skin tone. My Vanilla Nude of choice is Revlon Colorburst in #070 Soft Nude, below. —- 1. Peach Creme: Add Rimmel Moisture Renew #640 Coral Chic —- 2. Strawberry Milk: Add Rimmel Moisture Renew #180 Vintage Pink —- 3. Lavender Icing: Add MAC Up The Amp —- P.S.Have you entered the draw for a free 88 Palette?

Home-Brew: Nude Lips in Every Flavor

—-

Nudes are yummy. But there are pink nudes, peach nudes, beige nudes, and lilac nudes. How do you get your cake and eat it too?

Well here are a few simple formulas for converting a single nude into multiple ones. You first need a Vanilla-Nude. Something that really blanks out your lips when applied. It should you almost exactly your skin tone.

My Vanilla Nude of choice is Revlon Colorburst in #070 Soft Nude, below.

—-

1. Peach Creme: Add Rimmel Moisture Renew #640 Coral Chic

—-

2. Strawberry Milk: Add Rimmel Moisture Renew #180 Vintage Pink


—-

3. Lavender Icing: Add MAC Up The Amp

—-

P.S.Have you entered the draw for a free 88 Palette?

Posted April 18, 2011 at 2:40 am 17 notes

#beauty#fashion#highlight#makeup#nude lips#nude lipstick#review#revlon colorburst#revlon lipstick#revlon soft nude#style#home brew#makeupbox

Home-brew: “Goddess” pigment

Who says brown is boring?

Meet my favorite custom-blend pigment, which I’ve named “Goddess”. It’s earthy, but it’s a strong, gold-flecked high-sheen metallic brown which is never boring to wear.

In fact, it’s not always appropriate for the day, especially if you work in a more formal corporate environment where too much sparkle is frowned upon. 

Ah, well… I’ll look forward to the weekends.

I mixed this up on a whim and then realized I didn’t note down what pigments I used and in what proportion, so now I’d be very hard-pressed to replicate this ever again.

Woe, me.

Posted February 22, 2011 at 11:23 pm 3 notes

#pigment#home-brew#home brew#D.I.Y.#brown eyeshadow#bronze eyeshadow#reflects eyeshadow#beauty#cosmetics#fashion

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