How To: Make Your Own Cream Shadow from Powder Pigments or Shadows
I mentioned last week that I’d run you through how to create your own cream/mousse shadow using powder pigments. This should work with all loose shadows, and most pressed ones as well.
- Solvent/Suspension base: Rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol. The higher the alcohol content, the better.
- Powder pigment: If you are creating yours from a pressed shadow, crumble it up first.
- Binder: You can use either an oil or a silicone (dimethicone, silicone oil etc). Oils* are easier to find in general, and my recommendation is Jojoba or Mineral oil.
- Small empty containers like the 5gram jar I used here.
Step 1: First scoop the loose pigments into the jar you will be using. If you are using pressed shadow, make sure to crush it as much as possible as you want to minimize any lumps. If you are mixing 2 or more shades, do so while they are DRY.
Step 2: Using a plastic pipette (optional) or just straight from the bottle, add alcohol into the powder until it is all suspended in liquid. Then use a small spatula to stir gently and mix everything until you get a smooth, liquid paste.
Step 3: There should be a bit of excess alcohol at the surface of your mixture when you begin to start adding in drops of oil or silicone. The amount to add varies with the amount of pigments you used, and the texture. Finer, smoother pigments will require less oil and grittier feeling ones will need more.
You should stir and add more until you start to notice the smooth liquid/paste starting to separate from the alcohol and look lumpy and curd-like. This means the binder has been incorporated well into the powders.
Step 4: Leave the mixture to sit for a while, until the lightweight alcohol rises to the surface and all the shadow has sunken to the bottom. You can carefully tip the jar and use some tissue to soak up the excess alcohol.
Leave overnight or for at least 3-4 hours until it’s more or less dry.
Step 5: The finished product will look rather grainy or lumpy at the top but don’t worry. This is just the surface. If you’ve seen the surface of a jar of untouched Chanel Illusion D’Ombre, this won’t be unfamiliar to you.
If well blended, the surface texture should feel silky and almost mousse-like. Now you can just use it the way you’d use any cream/mousse shadow.
Pigment used for demonstration: TKB Sparkle Blue. (MAC Cornflower is a smoother, finer-grained and more intensely-shiny alternative.)