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Posts tagged natural makeup

[Question/Request] Makeup for a Hippie-themed Party?

[Images are all sourced from Google and not mine!]

When we think of the word “hippie”, a few things come to mind:

  • Long flowing hair
  • Head-bands
  • Sun-kissed, natural skin
  • Face-painting [optional]
  • Flowers, flowers, and more flowers (they didn’t coin the term “flower-child” for nothing)
  • Bell-bottom jeans
  • Loose flowing tunics and dresses

The hippie makeup look can range anywhere from a very natural one (see the top image from Becca’s Halcyon Days campaign, with nothing more than brown shadow, and a warm tawny lip and cheek) to full-on face-painting.

I’m not demonstrating because I don’t have any face paint on hand, but it’s straightforward enough because the makeup is actually quite natural and pretty (if you skip the flower face painting).

I’d actually recommend just keeping things very pretty and simple on the face, and letting your hair and outfit do the talking for you.

Read More

Requested: Soft and Peachy Lids, Cheeks and Lips

Here’s the inspiration for the look, and while I don’t have the same kewpie-doll features or the porcelain skin of the model, this is the basic way you can recreate the look for yourself.

The key to the look is a matching coral/peach tone on the cheeks and in the crease, echoing a glossy soft coral lip.

Because this is using hazy, matte shades, I would say it’s probably going to work better on pale to medium skins. If you have dark skin, you can definitely still create the effect but you would need a much deeper taupe brown and a stronger peach/brick shadow in order for the look not to go chalky.

You will need:

Read More

"Have you done a natural look, yet?"

Asked by Anonymous

Hi, if you just hit the Archive link and look through, you’ll find natural or subtle looks interspersed between the colorful ones. 

There definitely won’t be as many as the brighter more colorful looks simply because there are only so many “neutral” variations I can do on a regular basis and still keep it “natural”, since I don’t want to repeat the same looks.

image

The other way is to click by the “natural makeup” tag: http://makeupbox.tumblr.com/tagged/natural-makeup

Requested: Low Budget Barely-There Makeup (How to Look Polished for Less) — Say you’re just starting out with makeup and you don’t want to wear a whole lot, or invest in a lot of tools and brushes. Let’s face it. The No Makeup Makeup Look can cost more than full-on makeup. All those HD products, Face and Body Foundations, high-end shadows and fancy stippling brushes that promise an undetectable makeup result might work great but aren’t always realistic when you’re on a budget. So how do you get yourself looking more polished without it costing a pretty penny? Here are some basic tricks to consider. — 1. If you have money for just one foundation, make it a higher-coverage one. You can always mix 2 parts foundation with 1 part lotion (or more) on the back of your hand for a sheerer, more lightweight, “HD”-type foundation, and your product goes a LONG way compared to getting a tinted moisturizer for about the same price. Note: No foundation in the world, no matter how good it is, will look great if it doesn’t match your skin. Spend some time to find the best possible match. 2. Use your fingers to apply. If you don’t have a fancy stippling or buffing brush, the good news is - you don’t REALLY need one. Here’s how you apply the most even layer of foundation possible with your fingers.  After you mix in any lotion, use the pads of your fingers like a sponge and lightly pat-pat-pat the foundation over your face until you get a light, even layer all over and there are no patches or uneven areas to be seen. NO RUBBING ALLOWED! The patting helps to press a thin, even layer of foundation, lift away excess product, and does not disturb anything that has started to set on the skin. Essentially, you get the fullest (and most even) coverage possible with that amount of product. To get the same effect with a brush or a rubbing motion, you’ll almost always end up wasting a lot more product and time. 3. Don’t use a concealer that’s noticeably lighter than your skin. Find exactly your skin tone, and find something with higher coverage so you can cover more with less product.  Why? Because using a much lighter concealer to cover dark circles and “highlight” the area under your eyes only works when you have a lighting crew a la J-Lo and Kim Kardashian. In real life, you just end up highlighting what you want to hide, AND telling people how hard you’re trying to cover them up.  You need a skin-tone powder to neutralize the lightness of the concealer, but if it’s the No Makeup Makeup look you’re going for, visible powder is one of the biggest giveaways. I’d only recommend setting your skin with some translucent powder if you have oilier skin or live in a very humid climate, because your sebum or moisture in the environment will remove the powdery look quickly.  General word of advise: Concealer can make you feel better when you have that important interview or you’re about to meet the man of your dreams, but don’t turn it into an emotional crutch and end up spackling it on. The average stranger won’t notice or care about that little bit of redness or the shadows under your eyes, and the people who know you would probably rather not see thick, crusty concealer on your face. Relax a little! 4. If you are dry, live in a dry climate, or just don’t like how powder looks, this is a super-cheap trick for getting a non-greasy face that isn’t flat and matte.  Use a single-ply sheet of tissue and lightly cup it over your face where you want it to look matte. Don’t press hard or you will rub off your makeup. Just cup. This lifts the excess moisture from your foundation and concealer, and leaves mostly pigments so you get the coverage, but with invisible, natural texture. 5. Brow-grooming.  This is an important part to making any face look more polished. It’s always a good idea to get it done professionally (or by someone who you think has nicely-groomed brows) and then maintain it yourself after that.  BUT - if you’re sure of yourself and want to take it on, then make sure you do not overdo it. Thick unruly brows are ALWAYS nicer than over-plucked or tadpole brows (also otherwise known as the “comma” brow, below).  I always want to run screaming when I see them. A general guideline; STAY AWAY from the inner half of your brows when you are clearing up your browbone area, and keep the shape nicely tapering from thick (inside) to thin (outside). Don’t keep plucking further and further inwards or you’ll end up like the image above. Everybody’s brow thickness varies, so I’m not going to say what is too thin or too thick, but there should be no obvious “comma” or tadpole head. *shudder*  If you’re filling it in with a brow pencil or powder, don’t overemphasize the arch or you’ll look like a 50’s villain with a fierce “V” brow. look for noticeable gaps and sparse areas and only apply minimal product, before building up as needed. Most brows are thicker in the inner halves, and you might not need to darken that portion. always use a slightly grey-toned pencil or powder, UNLESS you have red hair, in which case you can use a regular brown. 6. Define the eyes with a soft taupe brown that is MATTE and slightly deeper than your skin tone. But this shade is different for every skin tone, so how do you find your perfect shade? You don’t need to go out and hunt high and low. Just dip your shadow brush into your regular skin-colored face powder and then tap it lightly into a generic matte brown shadow a few times to darken the shade a little. THAT’s all you need to get a good color for you.  It’s not going to be too visible going on, but it will define your socket line and lid area, depending on whether you want to emphasize your socket (better for hooded and mono-lids) or just the general eye area (if you have a defined double-lid).  For hooded/monolids, apply the color ALONG the dotted line, where your eye socket is the deepest. For double-lids, just apply the mixture on the entire area BELOW the dotted line. 7. For the lash line, there are 2 things you want to try to do for that “my eyes but better” look. Emphasize the base of the lashes so they look denser Curl and darken the lashes themselves (if you have light hair) For the first part, you just need to run a black or brown (if you have red or blonde hair) pencil along the upper lash line.   Then, use the oldest trick in my book; rub it back and forth to soften and smudge it out so it emphasizes your eyes but looks more like a smoky shadow than a hard line.  Lastly, you curl your lashes. If you have dark hair and your lashes curl easily, you can just leave everything as is. If you have very straight or down-ward pointing lashes, invest in a pair of eyelash curlers. If you’re scared of them, there are those partial curlers that allow you to curl them section by section so you won’t clip your skin.  You might need to look on ebay to see if you can locate these, as I’m not certain about availability outside of Asia. If you’re in Asia, most drugstores and Japanese cosmetics brands SHOULD carry something like this. When all else fails, get an electric lash curler. I believe Sephora has one. Just check with one of the assistants. I find these take a LOONG time but they’re the least scary way to get your lashes pointing upwards.  At this point, if you have fair lashes or your lashes are a little on the short side, you might want to get a mascara. But there are a mind-boggling variety to choose from. The best ones for a more “natural, wispy” look are formulas that are quite wet and/or brushes that aren’t too full and dense, because they go on in lighter layers and don’t give you clumpy spider-legs. Good options include Great Lash and Lash Blast.  Here’s a guideline.  You can tell by the mascara on the bristles that this is going to be a thick and dramatic formula. How it looks on the brush is how it would look on your lashes.   THIS wand on the other hand, barely looks like it has much product coated on it at all because the formula is quite thin. A better option if you really want your mascara to look VERY natural.  I like just a tiny bit of visible mascara. It might look obvious on camera, but in real life, this amount actually looks fine, and was done using just a single coat of Great Lash.  8. Cheeks can have a touch of color but NO shimmer or glitter! Pick your poison, depending on whether you prefer a matte bronzer for contouring or a little bit of pretty color on the apples. I prefer a soft blush, and I find mousse and cream blushes that contain no shimmer are the best options.  To make sure you apply equal amounts to both cheeks, get a little on your finger tips and press the fingers of both hands together to distribute it evenly. This way, you don’t end up applying too much on one side, and having to apply more on the other to balance it out. It could go on and on and you end up with WAY too much color. 9. For the lips, I have just one product recommendation. Get a tinted lip balm in a stick form, in a deep cherry shade, but with minimal pigmentation and no visible shimmer. It’s idiot-proof and flattering on everyone. A stick balm also doesn’t look overly glossy. You just look like you have moist, healthy, naturally-reddened lips. I used my absolute favorite, Cover Girl Lipslick in Hipster.

@missionaviatrix: Sorry this answer seems to have disappointed you! Different people need different things when it comes to “natural look”; some simple, some more complicated. I did list multiple options in the tag link for those who are really interested in more options, and it’s definitely not all just “sticking on some liner”.

Simple Morning-After Eye Makeup: aka What I do when I get Puffy After-Party Eyes
—
Taking a break from the glittery party looks to insert a “palate-cleanser”, especially for those of you longing for some neutral/simple makeup looks. This is something I tend to go for both when I’m feeling lazy, and also when my eyes get puffy after a late night, or too much drinking/eating/crying.
A note on puffiness:
Puffy eyes are different from general dark circles because the flesh around the eyes are swollen. While most tutorials and guides will tell you to apply bright, soft colors around the eyes after a late night so you can look more awake, applying soft pastels or shimmery shades on puffy lids is going to make them look even more pillowy and marshmallow-like.

What you really need to do is to add some definition and shade in the right places, without weighing your eyes down with too much makeup. (That will just draw more attention there.) This is a look you can do if you have very thick or heavy lids that you want to visually “reduce” as well.
P.S. This is also a perfectly-simple yet defined neutral lid for school or work.
—

Step 1: Aside from some salmon-toned concealer under the eyes to correct the oh-so-visible veins and darkness, I like to use BB Cream as a lid primer. Not only does it hold shadow nicely, but it’s also a lot better for the skin than the regular primer.
Avoid too much powder in and under the eye area as it can grab in any fine lines and make your skin look worse.
—

Step 2: Pick a soft beige-pink satin or matte shadow (MAC Yogurt is pretty good) and pack that onto the inner half of the lids. The slight pink undertone won’t look visible on the lids, but helps to illuminate and correct any darkness without adding a load of shimmer.
—

Step 3: On the outer half of the lids, pick a matte brown shadow, mix it with a little of the soft beige shade from earlier to soften the color, and then apply it to the outer half of the lids. This provides some shading and contouring, and helps to “recede” puffy lids a little. Avoid applying too much dark color to the socket line or you will do the reverse.— 

Step 4: Along the upper lash line, apply a stroke of black liner from the outside in, keeping it very thin at the inner corners. What you’ll do in the next step is what’s going to “mask” the puffy lid by creating a false shadow.
—

Step 5: Using the same shadow brush from earlier, just buff black and forth along the line to smudge and smoke it out until it becomes quite a soft charcoal shade over most of your mobile lid. This draws attention to the lash line, and also recedes the puffy lid area further. 
Now, you can simply curl your lashes and apply dark mascara to finish.
—

Final tip for mascara: The lower lid is usually also slightly puffy, and applying dark shadow there can look overly dramatic for the day. Simply apply mascara to the central section of the lower lashes. This adds definition to your lash line, casts a little shade over the puffy area beneath, but doesn’t look like you’re wearing heaps of eye makeup.
—
Other tips for quick puffy-eye remedying:
We don’t always have time to lie back with slices of cucumber or chilled tea bags on our eyes. This is what I used to do back in my “wilder days” when I would party ‘til the lights came on, about 3-4 nights a week, and still had to look presentable for work or shoots the next day. (Yowch.)
1. Products with some caffeine can drain the eye quickly (or at least much faster than leaving them as is), and one of the BEST products I’ve ever tried is Origins No Puffery. I read about this a few years back when some models listed this as the best fix for puffy eyes when they’ve been out partying and need to look good for shows and shoots the next day. Pop this in the fridge, and pat a bit around the entire orbital area when your eyes are puffy. It usually drains the eye area significantly in about 5-15 minutes.
2. Apply pressure to the orbital area to drain it. Clarins has a great facial massage sequence that I do to drain excess water from the face, whether or not I’m using their product, although pairing it with a caffeine-infused facial treatment product DOES give you faster and better results.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGolChrkfyo

Simple Morning-After Eye Makeup: aka What I do when I get Puffy After-Party Eyes

Taking a break from the glittery party looks to insert a “palate-cleanser”, especially for those of you longing for some neutral/simple makeup looks. This is something I tend to go for both when I’m feeling lazy, and also when my eyes get puffy after a late night, or too much drinking/eating/crying.

A note on puffiness:

Puffy eyes are different from general dark circles because the flesh around the eyes are swollen. While most tutorials and guides will tell you to apply bright, soft colors around the eyes after a late night so you can look more awake, applying soft pastels or shimmery shades on puffy lids is going to make them look even more pillowy and marshmallow-like.

Read More

Requested: Low Budget Barely-There Makeup (How to Look Polished for Less)
—
Say you’re just starting out with makeup and you don’t want to wear a whole lot, or invest in a lot of tools and brushes. Let’s face it. The No Makeup Makeup Look can cost more than full-on makeup. All those HD products, Face and Body Foundations, high-end shadows and fancy stippling brushes that promise an undetectable makeup result might work great but aren’t always realistic when you’re on a budget.
So how do you get yourself looking more polished without it costing a pretty penny?
Here are some basic tricks to consider.
—
1. If you have money for just one foundation, make it a higher-coverage one. You can always mix 2 parts foundation with 1 part lotion (or more) on the back of your hand for a sheerer, more lightweight, “HD”-type foundation, and your product goes a LONG way compared to getting a tinted moisturizer for about the same price.
Note: No foundation in the world, no matter how good it is, will look great if it doesn’t match your skin. Spend some time to find the best possible match.
2. Use your fingers to apply. If you don’t have a fancy stippling or buffing brush, the good news is - you don’t REALLY need one. Here’s how you apply the most even layer of foundation possible with your fingers.

After you mix in any lotion, use the pads of your fingers like a sponge and lightly pat-pat-pat the foundation over your face until you get a light, even layer all over and there are no patches or uneven areas to be seen.
NO RUBBING ALLOWED!
The patting helps to press a thin, even layer of foundation, lift away excess product, and does not disturb anything that has started to set on the skin. Essentially, you get the fullest (and most even) coverage possible with that amount of product.
To get the same effect with a brush or a rubbing motion, you’ll almost always end up wasting a lot more product and time.
3. Don’t use a concealer that’s noticeably lighter than your skin.
Find exactly your skin tone, and find something with higher coverage so you can cover more with less product. 
Why? Because using a much lighter concealer to cover dark circles and “highlight” the area under your eyes only works when you have a lighting crew a la J-Lo and Kim Kardashian. In real life, you just end up highlighting what you want to hide, AND telling people how hard you’re trying to cover them up.

You need a skin-tone powder to neutralize the lightness of the concealer, but if it’s the No Makeup Makeup look you’re going for, visible powder is one of the biggest giveaways.
I’d only recommend setting your skin with some translucent powder if you have oilier skin or live in a very humid climate, because your sebum or moisture in the environment will remove the powdery look quickly. 
General word of advise: Concealer can make you feel better when you have that important interview or you’re about to meet the man of your dreams, but don’t turn it into an emotional crutch and end up spackling it on. The average stranger won’t notice or care about that little bit of redness or the shadows under your eyes, and the people who know you would probably rather not see thick, crusty concealer on your face. Relax a little!
4. If you are dry, live in a dry climate, or just don’t like how powder looks, this is a super-cheap trick for getting a non-greasy face that isn’t flat and matte.

Use a single-ply sheet of tissue and lightly cup it over your face where you want it to look matte. Don’t press hard or you will rub off your makeup. Just cup.
This lifts the excess moisture from your foundation and concealer, and leaves mostly pigments so you get the coverage, but with invisible, natural texture.
5. Brow-grooming. 
This is an important part to making any face look more polished. It’s always a good idea to get it done professionally (or by someone who you think has nicely-groomed brows) and then maintain it yourself after that. 
BUT - if you’re sure of yourself and want to take it on, then make sure you do not overdo it. Thick unruly brows are ALWAYS nicer than over-plucked or tadpole brows (also otherwise known as the “comma” brow, below).

I always want to run screaming when I see them. A general guideline; STAY AWAY from the inner half of your brows when you are clearing up your browbone area, and keep the shape nicely tapering from thick (inside) to thin (outside). Don’t keep plucking further and further inwards or you’ll end up like the image above.
Everybody’s brow thickness varies, so I’m not going to say what is too thin or too thick, but there should be no obvious “comma” or tadpole head. *shudder*

If you’re filling it in with a brow pencil or powder,
don’t overemphasize the arch or you’ll look like a 50’s villain with a fierce “V” brow.
look for noticeable gaps and sparse areas and only apply minimal product, before building up as needed. Most brows are thicker in the inner halves, and you might not need to darken that portion.
always use a slightly grey-toned pencil or powder, UNLESS you have red hair, in which case you can use a regular brown.
6. Define the eyes with a soft taupe brown that is MATTE and slightly deeper than your skin tone. But this shade is different for every skin tone, so how do you find your perfect shade?
You don’t need to go out and hunt high and low. Just dip your shadow brush into your regular skin-colored face powder and then tap it lightly into a generic matte brown shadow a few times to darken the shade a little.
THAT’s all you need to get a good color for you.

It’s not going to be too visible going on, but it will define your socket line and lid area, depending on whether you want to emphasize your socket (better for hooded and mono-lids) or just the general eye area (if you have a defined double-lid).

For hooded/monolids, apply the color ALONG the dotted line, where your eye socket is the deepest.
For double-lids, just apply the mixture on the entire area BELOW the dotted line.
7. For the lash line, there are 2 things you want to try to do for that “my eyes but better” look.
Emphasize the base of the lashes so they look denser
Curl and darken the lashes themselves (if you have light hair)
For the first part, you just need to run a black or brown (if you have red or blonde hair) pencil along the upper lash line. 

Then, use the oldest trick in my book; rub it back and forth to soften and smudge it out so it emphasizes your eyes but looks more like a smoky shadow than a hard line.

Lastly, you curl your lashes.
If you have dark hair and your lashes curl easily, you can just leave everything as is.
If you have very straight or down-ward pointing lashes, invest in a pair of eyelash curlers. If you’re scared of them, there are those partial curlers that allow you to curl them section by section so you won’t clip your skin.

You might need to look on ebay to see if you can locate these, as I’m not certain about availability outside of Asia. If you’re in Asia, most drugstores and Japanese cosmetics brands SHOULD carry something like this.
When all else fails, get an electric lash curler. I believe Sephora has one. Just check with one of the assistants. I find these take a LOONG time but they’re the least scary way to get your lashes pointing upwards.

At this point, if you have fair lashes or your lashes are a little on the short side, you might want to get a mascara. But there are a mind-boggling variety to choose from.
The best ones for a more “natural, wispy” look are formulas that are quite wet and/or brushes that aren’t too full and dense, because they go on in lighter layers and don’t give you clumpy spider-legs. Good options include Great Lash and Lash Blast. 
Here’s a guideline.

You can tell by the mascara on the bristles that this is going to be a thick and dramatic formula. How it looks on the brush is how it would look on your lashes. 

THIS wand on the other hand, barely looks like it has much product coated on it at all because the formula is quite thin. A better option if you really want your mascara to look VERY natural.

I like just a tiny bit of visible mascara. It might look obvious on camera, but in real life, this amount actually looks fine, and was done using just a single coat of Great Lash. 
8. Cheeks can have a touch of color but NO shimmer or glitter!
Pick your poison, depending on whether you prefer a matte bronzer for contouring or a little bit of pretty color on the apples. I prefer a soft blush, and I find mousse and cream blushes that contain no shimmer are the best options. 
To make sure you apply equal amounts to both cheeks, get a little on your finger tips and press the fingers of both hands together to distribute it evenly. This way, you don’t end up applying too much on one side, and having to apply more on the other to balance it out. It could go on and on and you end up with WAY too much color.
9. For the lips, I have just one product recommendation. Get a tinted lip balm in a stick form, in a deep cherry shade, but with minimal pigmentation and no visible shimmer. It’s idiot-proof and flattering on everyone. A stick balm also doesn’t look overly glossy. You just look like you have moist, healthy, naturally-reddened lips.
I used my absolute favorite, Cover Girl Lipslick in Hipster.

Requested: Low Budget Barely-There Makeup (How to Look Polished for Less)

Say you’re just starting out with makeup and you don’t want to wear a whole lot, or invest in a lot of tools and brushes. Let’s face it. The No Makeup Makeup Look can cost more than full-on makeup. All those HD products, Face and Body Foundations, high-end shadows and fancy stippling brushes that promise an undetectable makeup result might work great but aren’t always realistic when you’re on a budget.

So how do you get yourself looking more polished without it costing a pretty penny?

Here are some basic tricks to consider.

1. If you have money for just one foundation, make it a higher-coverage one. You can always mix 2 parts foundation with 1 part lotion (or more) on the back of your hand for a sheerer, more lightweight, “HD”-type foundation, and your product goes a LONG way compared to getting a tinted moisturizer for about the same price.

Note: No foundation in the world, no matter how good it is, will look great if it doesn’t match your skin. Spend some time to find the best possible match.

2. Use your fingers to apply. If you don’t have a fancy stippling or buffing brush, the good news is - you don’t REALLY need one. Here’s how you apply the most even layer of foundation possible with your fingers.

image

After you mix in any lotion, use the pads of your fingers like a sponge and lightly pat-pat-pat the foundation over your face until you get a light, even layer all over and there are no patches or uneven areas to be seen.

NO RUBBING ALLOWED!

The patting helps to press a thin, even layer of foundation, lift away excess product, and does not disturb anything that has started to set on the skin. Essentially, you get the fullest (and most even) coverage possible with that amount of product.

To get the same effect with a brush or a rubbing motion, you’ll almost always end up wasting a lot more product and time.

3. Don’t use a concealer that’s noticeably lighter than your skin.

Find exactly your skin tone, and find something with higher coverage so you can cover more with less product. 

Why? Because using a much lighter concealer to cover dark circles and “highlight” the area under your eyes only works when you have a lighting crew a la J-Lo and Kim Kardashian. In real life, you just end up highlighting what you want to hide, AND telling people how hard you’re trying to cover them up.

image

You need a skin-tone powder to neutralize the lightness of the concealer, but if it’s the No Makeup Makeup look you’re going for, visible powder is one of the biggest giveaways.

I’d only recommend setting your skin with some translucent powder if you have oilier skin or live in a very humid climate, because your sebum or moisture in the environment will remove the powdery look quickly. 

General word of advise: Concealer can make you feel better when you have that important interview or you’re about to meet the man of your dreams, but don’t turn it into an emotional crutch and end up spackling it on. The average stranger won’t notice or care about that little bit of redness or the shadows under your eyes, and the people who know you would probably rather not see thick, crusty concealer on your face. Relax a little!

4. If you are dry, live in a dry climate, or just don’t like how powder looks, this is a super-cheap trick for getting a non-greasy face that isn’t flat and matte.

image

Use a single-ply sheet of tissue and lightly cup it over your face where you want it to look matte. Don’t press hard or you will rub off your makeup. Just cup.

This lifts the excess moisture from your foundation and concealer, and leaves mostly pigments so you get the coverage, but with invisible, natural texture.

5. Brow-grooming. 

This is an important part to making any face look more polished. It’s always a good idea to get it done professionally (or by someone who you think has nicely-groomed brows) and then maintain it yourself after that. 

BUT - if you’re sure of yourself and want to take it on, then make sure you do not overdo it. Thick unruly brows are ALWAYS nicer than over-plucked or tadpole brows (also otherwise known as the “comma” brow, below).

image

I always want to run screaming when I see them. A general guideline; STAY AWAY from the inner half of your brows when you are clearing up your browbone area, and keep the shape nicely tapering from thick (inside) to thin (outside). Don’t keep plucking further and further inwards or you’ll end up like the image above.

Everybody’s brow thickness varies, so I’m not going to say what is too thin or too thick, but there should be no obvious “comma” or tadpole head. *shudder*

image

If you’re filling it in with a brow pencil or powder,

  • don’t overemphasize the arch or you’ll look like a 50’s villain with a fierce “V” brow.
  • look for noticeable gaps and sparse areas and only apply minimal product, before building up as needed. Most brows are thicker in the inner halves, and you might not need to darken that portion.
  • always use a slightly grey-toned pencil or powder, UNLESS you have red hair, in which case you can use a regular brown.

6. Define the eyes with a soft taupe brown that is MATTE and slightly deeper than your skin tone. But this shade is different for every skin tone, so how do you find your perfect shade?

You don’t need to go out and hunt high and low. Just dip your shadow brush into your regular skin-colored face powder and then tap it lightly into a generic matte brown shadow a few times to darken the shade a little.

THAT’s all you need to get a good color for you.

image

It’s not going to be too visible going on, but it will define your socket line and lid area, depending on whether you want to emphasize your socket (better for hooded and mono-lids) or just the general eye area (if you have a defined double-lid).

image

  • For hooded/monolids, apply the color ALONG the dotted line, where your eye socket is the deepest.
  • For double-lids, just apply the mixture on the entire area BELOW the dotted line.

7. For the lash line, there are 2 things you want to try to do for that “my eyes but better” look.

  • Emphasize the base of the lashes so they look denser
  • Curl and darken the lashes themselves (if you have light hair)

For the first part, you just need to run a black or brown (if you have red or blonde hair) pencil along the upper lash line. 

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Then, use the oldest trick in my book; rub it back and forth to soften and smudge it out so it emphasizes your eyes but looks more like a smoky shadow than a hard line.

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Lastly, you curl your lashes.

If you have dark hair and your lashes curl easily, you can just leave everything as is.

If you have very straight or down-ward pointing lashes, invest in a pair of eyelash curlers. If you’re scared of them, there are those partial curlers that allow you to curl them section by section so you won’t clip your skin.

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You might need to look on ebay to see if you can locate these, as I’m not certain about availability outside of Asia. If you’re in Asia, most drugstores and Japanese cosmetics brands SHOULD carry something like this.

When all else fails, get an electric lash curler. I believe Sephora has one. Just check with one of the assistants. I find these take a LOONG time but they’re the least scary way to get your lashes pointing upwards.

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At this point, if you have fair lashes or your lashes are a little on the short side, you might want to get a mascara. But there are a mind-boggling variety to choose from.

The best ones for a more “natural, wispy” look are formulas that are quite wet and/or brushes that aren’t too full and dense, because they go on in lighter layers and don’t give you clumpy spider-legs. Good options include Great Lash and Lash Blast. 

Here’s a guideline.

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You can tell by the mascara on the bristles that this is going to be a thick and dramatic formula. How it looks on the brush is how it would look on your lashes. 

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THIS wand on the other hand, barely looks like it has much product coated on it at all because the formula is quite thin. A better option if you really want your mascara to look VERY natural.

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I like just a tiny bit of visible mascara. It might look obvious on camera, but in real life, this amount actually looks fine, and was done using just a single coat of Great Lash. 

8. Cheeks can have a touch of color but NO shimmer or glitter!

Pick your poison, depending on whether you prefer a matte bronzer for contouring or a little bit of pretty color on the apples. I prefer a soft blush, and I find mousse and cream blushes that contain no shimmer are the best options. 

To make sure you apply equal amounts to both cheeks, get a little on your finger tips and press the fingers of both hands together to distribute it evenly. This way, you don’t end up applying too much on one side, and having to apply more on the other to balance it out. It could go on and on and you end up with WAY too much color.

9. For the lips, I have just one product recommendation. Get a tinted lip balm in a stick form, in a deep cherry shade, but with minimal pigmentation and no visible shimmer. It’s idiot-proof and flattering on everyone. A stick balm also doesn’t look overly glossy. You just look like you have moist, healthy, naturally-reddened lips.

I used my absolute favorite, Cover Girl Lipslick in Hipster.

Lip Of the Moment: Berry Stains (click photos for right-sized shots)

Like dark lips but not ready to wear it for daily life? Try a stain! I wrote on Instagram that I’ve been a bit crazy over deep berry/cherry stained lips these past few weeks.

I wore nothing but berry stained lips while traveling in NYC and it not only kept my lips moisturized but added some nice, easy-to-apply color without looking like too much. (You don’t want to be worrying about a precise, full-on lip when you’re walking everywhere in the day-time and eating or drinking often.)

Traditional stains like Benefit Benetint give a longer-lasting effect but I prefer balms and sheer lipsticks because they wear away more evenly. The ink-type stains tend to wear away from the center outwards and look quite patchy and uneven over the day.

Also, they can tend to go on a bit too intense and be very hard to control for people who have very pale skin or very dark or red lips naturally.

The ones I’m recommending are cheapies, with the exception of Clinique’s Black Honey, which is the arguable queen of sheer balm-stains. I was running all over NYC looking for Givenchy’s Rouge Interdit in Liv’s Lips, a self-adjusting shade, but that was not available the past couple of weeks so I didn’t get it, but that is a very cool one to take a look at if you can.

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The alternatives to Black Honey are Revlon’sJust Bitten Kissable Balm Stain (the name is a mouthful) in Crush, which is a good one if you have medium to deeper skin tones since it’s a bit more intense), and if you’re paler, Cover Girl’s Lipslicks in Hipster is perfect because it doesn’t add too much color. i really glommed on LOTS of Black Honey above for the camera but it’s not that red in real life so don’t worry.

There are SO many other alternatives in the drugstore (just check out all the colored lip balms) and you only need to watch out for these things:

  • Sheer balm-like texture that deposits a lot of moisture with not a lot of pigment
  • Low or no shimmer and frost
  • A dark cherry or berry shade with plummy undertones instead of a brick-brown, fire-engine red, or a brown

Doesn’t work for you?

If these are even too deep for you because you have porcelain skin or pigmented lips, follow that lip-shot above and apply the berry stain right in the center portion of your lip, over a muted pinky-beige lipstick. This softens the color and still gives a stained effect. (Pinky-beige lipstick worn - Rimmel Airy Fairy.)

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