The Makeup Box

Majolica Majorca Chapter 37: Getting Reunited with a Cult-Favorite Fiber Mascara (in Brown this time!) plus a Pencil that looks like a Swan Feather

—

From this month, Shiseido will release a limited edition collection called “Moonlight Virgin” in 2 parts. The first includes a multipurpose “quill pencil” and a brown version of the Lash Expander Edge Meister mascara (with the dual-sided comb tip). Now me and Lash Expander mascara go way back. I used it exclusively for 3-4 years when it was just released across Asia, because it created these long, fine, waterproof doll-lashes. After a 5-year breakup (I’m never monogamous with makeup), I was quite glad to get reacquainted and grabbed the chance to find out 2 things:

• whether the mascara was as good at building length as I remembered
• whether the brown shade would show up (and look alright) with my dark hair and eyes

Read More

Requested: Soft and Peachy Lids, Cheeks and Lips

—

Here’s the inspiration for the look, and while I don’t have the same kewpie-doll features or the porcelain skin of the model, this is the basic way you can recreate the look for yourself.

The key to the look is a matching coral/peach tone on the cheeks and in the crease, echoing a glossy soft coral lip.

Because this is using hazy, matte shades, I would say it’s probably going to work better on pale to medium skins. If you have dark skin, you can definitely still create the effect but you would need a much deeper taupe brown and a stronger peach/brick shadow in order for the look not to go chalky.

You will need:

Read More

Soft Velvet-Lavender (MAC Crystal and Satellite Dreams)

—

After the really bright and acidic looks, it’s time for a break with a softer, more wearable option that you can throw on for work or play.

I dug out some MAC shadows that I forgot about, and the only thing you need to remember is that you can easily soften a bright color for work or school by layering it over a soft tone like I did here.

• Deep smoky brown or grey (I used BH Cosmetics MS17, a soft grey)
• A pale duochrome lavender grey (MAC Crystal) 
• A brighter medium true purple (MAC Satellite Dreams)

—

Step 1: Simply ground your look with some definition and shape by applying the smoky grey to the outer 1/3 of the lids and along the lower lash line. It should blend up to the socket line only, not any further as this isn’t a dramatic shape.

—

Step 2: On the rest of the lids, and the inner half of the lower lash line, apply the soft lavender grey. If you have deeper skin tones, go for a truer purple because Crystal can end up looking just pure grey on very dark skin tones. 

—

Step 3: Now pick up the strongest color, the medium bright purple (Satellite Dreams for me) and just pack that down the center of the lids, over a part of the pale lilac earlier. Without this step, the look can seem almost neutral because of how soft the pale shade was. This is the step that gives the look a little oomph and a beautiful transition from light to bright to dark.

—

Step 4: Finish with mascara, and that’s all there is to it. 

Tips for Wearing Pink Shadows

—

Wearing pink (especially any shimmery pink) around the eye area can sometimes end up making you look like you have pink eye or swollen eyes. It’s not the easiest color to wear, and I tend to avoid it mostly.

But ironically, pink CAN be flattering on just about ALL skin tones because it’s a color that is naturally occurring on our bodies.

There are just a few tips to wearing it well.

—

1. Pair it with a slightly deeper shade in the crease or socket line. Think neutrals like greys, browns, navys, blacks. Many softer pinks are too light to give you any definition around the eyes, so you need to add a bit of contouring back into your socket mostly. 
2. Always keep your lash line dark. Without some black or brown at the lash line, and dark lashes, you can look like you have rabbit-eyes when you wear pink.

Good pinks: Softer pinks with a peachy-gold sheen are universally flattering on most skin tones. The gold keeps it from looking like discoloration or broken capillaries. Cooler-based pinks and magentas can be nice too, but they don’t go with as many looks and lip colors as a golden-toned pink.

• L’oreal Infallible 004 Forever Pink is a beautiful pink with a peach-gold tint
• MAC Swish, Da Bling, are nice light pearlescent pinks

Mattes are fine as well; in fact mattes are vibrant without looking flat. Locating a good matte pink is harder than applying it well. Avoid any pink that is too plummy or brown. You can look like you haven’t slept for 3 days.

—

Quick Tutorial on a basic defined-crease look

Step 1: Important thing to do is to always set a nice darkness around your lash line first. Your pink shadow is going to go on top of it, but having some black below keeps things smokier. Make the black thicker on the upper lash line, and very light and only halfway inwards along the lower lash line. 

(Leave the inner lower corners clean.)

—

Step 2: Pack on the pink. Nothing complicated here. Just go up to the hollow of your socket line, but don’t  go to far up.

—

Step 3: Reapply the black at the lash line. Keep things smoky and soft. Don’t try to get any thin precise line there.

—

Step 4: Use a small pointed brush to lightly run the black shadow along the hollow of the socket line. (If you have hooded eyes, small lids or monolids, make sure you follow along the deep line right above your eyeball, NOT the fold of your eye lid.)

—

Step 5: Finish with black liner along the inner rims of the eyes (option) and black mascara.

—

Regarding Colors:

You can replace the black shadow with greys, browns, charcoals, navy blues. The only thing is to make sure the other shade you use is deep enough to give some definition. 

Whatever contouring color you use, stick with black liner and mascara.